Photo Journal: February

Photo Journal: February - May, 2024

- May 07, 2024

It was business as usual during the Winter semester at the University of Victoria. I took Abstract Algebra, Real Analysis, Probability, and Topology. The routine consisted of homework, training at the climbing gym, biking to and from class, and the occasional pizza dinner with friends. I appreciated my time with Sophie as her departure date for France loomed. It's always busy. Never having enough time for anything, especially downtime. We did however manage to get out surfing a little, climbing some more, and a trip to Squamish in February.

1: Sourdough

Sourdough has been a nice study distraction, and a useful tool to maintain some routine with the timing involved. Typically I'd feed my starter in the morning, make my dough in the afternoon so the bulk rise can happen overnight. I'd been playing with some higher hydration loaves with really good results. Something I'll need to revisit this fall. My downfall in the bread business is my general disdain for recipes. My Grandpa Dan is quite the master with his loaves; likely due to his high attention to detail in following his recipes. I'll get there one day.

2: Squamish Trip

A group of us made it out to Squamish for a week of climbing during reading break. We got lucky with the weather, and on a couple of those rainy days we climbed in Chek Canyon.

Holden working Squealing Pork. That morning we toured some boulders in the North Walls area. Quieter and less trafficked than the Grand Wall bouldering area, the North Walls region is nice on busy weekends.

The improbable slopers of "Boomerang"

Boomerang is a really classic lip traverse I climbed in the North Walls. I used a bike on a thick pinch feature to move up the arete. Great Climbing. One should visit in good conditions though. The slopers are tough. I climbed it in 5 deg C which was certainly helpful... I'm not sure I would've done it if it was any warmer...

Sophie topping out "The Egg"
Sophies ascents of The Egg and The Reckoning Stand were highlights for her. She climbed well and took full advantage of the good conditions. Hers was the third female ascent of The Egg, using the same beta as the previous two Thomasina Pidgeon and Michaela Kiersch. Without the reach most men who have climbed the boulder take advantage of, an extremely delicate heel hook is used on the rightmost sloper. It depends entirely on a particular crystal that protrudes ever so slightly from the rock, biting into the shoe rubber keeping the foot on. It is my opinion that climbing The Egg in this style adds to the already impressive nature of the ascent. The Egg is one of the classic test pieces in Squamish, and Sophie was thrilled with her performance.

"The Cutting Edge"

The scene at "The Fuzz"

3. Bird on a Wire

Eyeing the lip on the FA

On a day out bouldering with Dorian, we decided to check out the a section of millstream that is not officially open. We came upon this boulder called Bird on a Wire, and I immediately took to the right arete as the obvious line I wanted to climb. Later, Hamish and I returned to the boulder and cleaned the slab and the arete. Upon a third return, we climbed them. It was a memorable experience, as the moves were heady and technical, with a committing pull onto the face after the small roof.

4. Surfing

Boards in the Van

I picked up a $200 foamy surfboard on the cheap, and my roommate gave me his old wetsuit. Since Sophie got her board a month or so before, we tried to get out on a few occasions to do some surfing. It's definitely a steep learning curve but next fall hopefully we'll make it out to Tofino for a little trip. It's nice to change it up from climbing from time to time. The drive to Sombrio is maybe an hour and a half, so it becomes a full day trip quickly.

Misc.

I'm about to head into security at the airport... on my way to Europe! So I'll wrap this up just with a few more photos I liked from the last couple months.